2006 Bonnes Mares, Louis Jadot (750ml)

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Vintage: 2006
Format: 750ml
Wine Name: Bonnes Mares
Vineyard:
Designation: Grand Cru
Appellation: Chambolle Musigny
Producer: Louis Jadot
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Type: Red
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Sub-Region: Cote de Nuits
Alcohol:

Tasting note:With site-typically savage intensity of almost liqueur-like red and black raspberry; pungent herbal concentrates; and smoldering punk-like pungency, the Jadot 2006 Bonnes Mares powers its way across a firm, bright palate and penetrates to a long, vibratory finish. This is not one of those 2006s that pauses to caress or flatter the palate, and it does not – at least yet – exhibit enormous or layered complexity, but is nonetheless hugely impressive. I would plan on cellaring this primordial sap of Bonnes Mares for several years and then anticipating high performance into the 2020s. Lardiere felt this wine was still suffering a bit from post-bottling stress on the sole occasion when I was able to taste it. Jacques Lardiere testifies that while there was more widespread rot of Pinot Noir in 2007 than in 2006, the latter was more insidious and challenging as it was less evident on the surface of the berries, and often hidden within the grape clusters. That said, he confirmed the observation of many other growers that sorting out under-ripe berries was at least as formidable a task as removing rot. The results here this year speak to the success of Jadot's rigor, and even from the Cote de Beaune there are many wines in this collection that in their sometimes understated, but also often texturally more refined way have nothing to fear from comparison with the 2005s at a similar state. (At ten years of age, it will no doubt be a different matter.) Lardiere claims that the beneficial effects of biodynamic procedures are being felt now in certain wines from vineyards where he began employing them after being impressed by what he took to be their healing efficacy in the aftermath of 2004 hail. No other vintage, he says, comes to mind that compares with this one for its combination of refinement and complexity with youthful accessibility. When pressed, he hazards some comparison to 2000 and 2001, but adds that the best 2006s are better. That their importer has long owned the controlling interest in Jadot may permit them unusual flexibility in pricing for the American market. What's certain is that the suggested retails publicized for their 2006s – most, slightly beneath those of the 2005 vintage – look remarkably low when compared with those reached in the last several years by other top Burgundy producers. A Jadot grand- or premier cru bottling is often priced like other growers' respective premier crus and village wines, rendering this enormous operation a source not only of continued consistently high quality and frequent distinction, but also of rare good value in red Burgundy. (There are several different domaine distinctions for Jadot wines, and of course some – albeit a diminishing number – are based on or incorporate contract fruit or purchased juice. But since the labels all display an easily recognized common Jadot identity, and since Jadot often exercises tight control over or enjoys very long-standing contracts on fruit that informs their negociant business, I have not noted these distinctions as part of each wine's description, but only occasionally – if deemed especially relevant – in the text of my tasting note.) (93+pts. DS, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate)

Tasted: Dec, 2009
Score: 93+
Drink: N/A

Tasting note: Bright medium red. Imploded but vibrant nose hints at raspberry, crushed stone and smoky minerality. Precise and perfumed in the mouth but showing little in the way of easy sweetness, in spite of its silky, seamless texture. Like a mouthful of rocks today. Finishes sappy and very long, with suggestions of dark berries and minerals. This will need a good eight to ten years of cellaring. (93pts. Steven Tanzer)

Tasted: Mar/Apr 2009
Score: 93
Drink: N/A

Tasting note: Ripe red and blue berry aromas are given depth by hints of underbrush, earth, wood spice and a floral component that is also reflected by the rich, full, sweet and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that possess plenty of mid-palate sap that completely buffers the buried tannins on the long, muscular and palate staining finish. This is a big wine and patience will be required but it's seriously impressive. (94pts. Allen Meadow's, The Burghound)

Tasted: April 1, 2009
Score: 94
Drink: 2018+