1989 Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Leflaive (750ml)

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Vintage: 1989
Format: 750ml
Wine Name: Chevalier-Montrachet
Vineyard:
Designation: Grand Cru
Appellation: Chevalier-Montrachet
Producer: Domaine Leflaive
Varietal: Chardonnay
Type: White
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Sub-Region: Cote de Beaune
Alcohol:

Tasting note: This is complex, ripe and densely fruited with fully mature aromas that are beginning to display a lack of freshness and even a background whiff of oxidation though it's very subtle. The flavors are rich, full and ample though this is more akin to a classic Bâtard than a Chevalier as the hallmark minerality is more of a nuance than a front-and-center character. To be sure, this is still enjoyable but I am concerned about where this is going and I would be inclined to drink up as two recent notes suggest that it's declining. (88pts. Allen Meadows, AKA “The Burghound”)

Tasted: Apr. 25, 2007
Score: 88
Drink: Now

Tasting note: The 1989 Chevalier-Montrachet needs more time. While it is the firmest and least forthcoming of Leflaive's 1989s from an aromatic perspective, it also exhibits the longest finish. In fact, the entire wine explodes at the end of the palate, suggesting 4-6 years of cellaring is required. This honeyed, creamy textured wine possesses superb acidity for a 1989, and should prove to be capable of 10-15 or more years of longevity. Although Leflaive's 1989s are top-notch, they are not as dramatic as one would expect from a vintage with the taste profile of 1989. I am not even sure if Leflaive's 1989s are as brilliant as their 1985s or 1986s. All of the great Burgundy domaines have a certain signature to their wines that is more recognizable than any perceived terroir character. In the case of the Domaine Leflaive (a reference point for all who cherish the finest in Chardonnay) that personality is one of uncompromising elegance, finesse, and purity of flavor. Anyone who has visited Leflaive has seen more water hoses than owned by the local fire department. Why? This is a domaine maniacal about pristine conditions in the cellars. The results, even in lighter vintages such as 1987, are admirable. The finest wines, of course, are the grands crus, but the biggest sleepers of the firm are the delicate Puligny-Montrachet-Les Pucelles and the fatter, richer, more husky Puligny-Montrachet-Les Combettes. (95pts. Robert Parker)

Tasted: Feb. 1992
Score: 95
Drink: 1996-2007

Tasting note: Really closed up now, but still shows great potential. Superbly balanced, with everything in the right place. Has multidimensional mineral, lemon and earth aromas, full-bodied, yet restrained cream, vanilla, honey and earth flavors, super acidity and a super-long finish. Drink in 1994 to '96. (96pts. Wine Spectator)

Tasted: Aug. 31, 1991
Score: 96
Drink: 1994-96